Istorija parfema

Kroz dim

 

Razvojem kulture čovečanstva, razvijala se i priča o parfemima. Kultura parfema prešla je dug put od spaljivanja tamjana, mirišljavih trava i smole prilikom verskih obreda do „Šanela 5“. Etimološki posmatrano, reč „parfem“  vodi poreklo od latinskog izraza „per fumum“, što znači „kroz dim“.

 

 

    Na drevnim egipatskim grobnicama, hijeroglifima, ispisana je priča o prvom obliku parfema i njegovom značaju u životima Egipćana. Poznato je da je kraljica Hatšepsut, jedna od najčuvenijih u istoriji ove civilizacije, slala čitave ekspedicije u potrazi za tamjanom i drugim vrednim mirisnim biljkama. Priče s takvih putovanja zabeležene su na zidovima piramida njoj u čast. U njenom hramu postojala je botanička bašta u kojoj se uzgajao tamjan čije su mladice donošene s čuvenih ekspedicija. Zarezivanjem kore tamjana dobijala se smola koja se takođe naziva tamjan. Pre zlatnog doba Egipta, parfemi su se koristili isključivo u verskim obredima, u čast bogova i faraona. Ubrzo su tamjan i ostale aromatične biljke postale dostupne mnogim Egipćanima, pa je građanima bilo naređeno da parfem koriste u kozmetičke svrhe i to jednom nedeljno.

 

 

Mirisni tragovi Egipta

 

Preteče luksuznih kupatila Grka i Rimljana javljaju se upravo u Egiptu. Egipćani su tela utapali u vodu s aromatičnim uljima, što im je pomagalo da zaštite kožu od jakih sunčevih zraka. Kupanje u mirisnoj vodi, nekad i do tri puta dnevno, donosilo im je i zadovoljstvo pa su parfeme svuda nosili sa sobom. Mirisi su se ostavljali i u grobnicama da bi pokojniku koža bila svilenkasta u zagrobnom životu. Tom gestu je pokriće poimanje Egipćana o životu posle smrti. Oni su, naime, verovali da je duša vezana za nebo i da će preci pomoću mirisa moći da prate njen trag. Parfemi su korišćeni i u procesu balsamovanja. U Egiptu su osmišljene mirisne note za različite delove tela i prve mirisne kreme.

 

Grcima se pripisuje umetnost izrade prvog tečnog parfema, iako je to bio sasvim drugačiji parfem od onog koji je popularan i zastupljen danas. Grci su mirisni prah mešali s jakim uljima bez alkohola a dobijenu tečnost sipali su u bočice od zlata, stakla, porcelana i kamena. Kada je staklo počelo da se obrađuje u Egiptu, smatralo se vrednijim od dragog kamenja a najčešće se koristilo za proizvodnju ukrasa. Egipćani su uvozili mnogo začina i aromata iz Indije, kao što su đumbir, biber i sandalovina, dok su sa Krita donosili ljiljan. Egipat je do danas zadržao istaknuto mesto u proizvodnji parfema koja sadrže esencijalna ulja, čemu je posebno doprinelo uzgajanje jasmina. U 6. veku, uprkos zabrani korišćenja parfema, muškarci i žene često su ih upotrebljavali, i to pre i posle kupke na svim delovima tela.

 

Kleopatra, čuvena egipatska vladarka, verovala je u moć mirisa. Kako istorija svedoči, na brodu Marka Antonija, na kojem je bila gošća, jedra su bila parfemisana. Prostorije u kojima je boravila Nefertiti, jedna od tri egipatske vladarke čuvene po svojoj lepoti (druge dve su Hatšepsut i Kleopatra), bile su ispunjene mirisom smirne, vrste smole. Posedovanje slatkog mirisnog bilja bio je dokaz bogatstva.

 

 

Parfem i na životinjama

 

Rimska kupatila, poznata po spektakularnom izgledu, u svom sklopu sadržavala su posebnu prostoriju u kojoj su se čuvale posude i tegle s mirisnim uljima. Rimljani su parfeme stavljali i na pse i na konje. U vreme praznika ptice su puštane iz svojih kaveza da bi letom širile mirisne note, jer su im tela prskana mirisnim uljima. Invazija Aleksandra Velikog dovela je do rasprostranjenja parfema u Grčkoj. Istražujući kako parfemi utiču na raspoloženje ljudi, Grci su uočili vezu percepcije mirisa i ukusa. Prva fabrika parfema potiče iz bronzanog doba, a nastala je na Kipru. Poznatom lekaru i alhemičaru, Aviceni, pripisuje se otkriće ružine vodice. On je pomoću alkohola izdvajao esencijalna ulja iz cveća, što je osnovni korak u proizvodnji parfema u tečnom obliku.

 

Prvi parfem u danas poznatom obliku napravljen je 1370. od mešavine esencijalnih ulja ruzmarina i lavande. Bila je to tzv. „mađarska voda“, načinjena za mađarsku kraljicu Eržebet. Velikoj popularnosti parfema u Evropi doprinela je Katarina Mediči, francuska kraljica iz doba verskih ratova, koja je na dvoru čak imala ličnog kreatora parfema, Renea le Florentena. Najblistavije momente parfemi beleže u 19. veku kada se otvaraju  prodavnice u kojima se prodaju pomade, sapuni i parfemi. Gras, grad u francuskoj Provansi, postaje centar proizvodnje parfema i mesto koje se ponosi najvećim poljima lavande i jasmina u Evropi.

 

 

Šanel 5

 

U mirisnim notama tada su uživali isključivo pripadnici viših klasa. Kasnije su one postale dostupne širim masama, jer su otkrića u hemijskoj industriji modernizovala i način proizvodnje parfema. Revoluciju u svet mode svojevremeno je uvela čuvena modna kreatorka Koko Šanel. Ova dama visokog stila bila je prva u istoriji koja je dizajnirala parfem sa svojim imenom, čuveni „Šanel 5“ (Chanel 5). Sredinom 20. veka pojavljuju se i prvi muški parfemi.

 

Parfemima se ne može osporiti psihološko dejstvo, u čemu zapravo i jeste njihova najveća vrednost. Stoga nije čudno što mnogi kreatori pokreću razna psihološka istraživanja i oslanjaju se na želje potencijalnih kupaca. Obuka za kreatora parfema traje oko pet godina i održava se u školama parfema, kao što je Viši institut za parfeme u Parizu i Givaudan škola, osnovana davne 1946.

 

 

Najpoznatiji parfemi

 

Jedan od najpoznatijih parfema „Šalimar“ (Shalimar) kreiran je davne 1921. Čitavih 60 godina bočica je imala jedinstven i karakterističan izgled. Reklamne kampanje za ovaj parfem iz godine u godinu sve su bolje, a pozitivne kritike pobrala je i ona koju je promovisala poznata manekenka, Natalija Vodijanova. Uz ovaj parfem ponosno stoji i „Džoj“ (Joy), jedan od vodećih cvetnih parfema iz 1929. čiji je tvorac Žan Pato. „Klajv Kristijan“ (Clive Christian Perfume) uvršten je u Ginisovu knjigu rekorda kao najskuplji parfem na svetu. Ovaj miris proizvodi se od najređih sastojaka, od kojih su dva nama poznata unikatna indijska sandalovina i retka vrsta vanile s Tahitija. Najskuplja bočica parfema je „Imperijal Medžisti“ (Imperial Majesty), izrađena od bakarat kristala s dijamantskim ukrasima. Godišnje se lansira samo deset takvih bočica. Neki od obožavalaca ovih elitnih kapi su Elton Džon i Kejti Holms.

 

 

- Staklene bočice parfema uvek držite dobro zatvorene na tamnom mestu.

- Parfem nanosite isključivo na pulsne tačke, jer se na njima mirisne note polako oslobađaju, zadržavajući prirodni intenzitet.

- Po nanošenju parfema ne trljajte zglobove jedan o drugi, jer će to potpuno neutralisati miris.

- Interesantno je da se parfem ravnomerno raspoređuje tek kada ga raspršite, a zatim prođete kroz mirisni „oblak“.

- Mirisi koji sadrže uljne ekstrakte su postojaniji.

- Za kupovinu parfema odaberite jutro, jer u to doba dana nos najtačnije registruje mirisne note. Izbegavajte da istog dana pomirišete više od tri parfema zbog toga što nos ima ograničen kapacitet primanja mirisnih kombinacija.

History of perfumes

Through smoke

 

 

As humanity culture developed, the story of perfumes did so. Perfume culture has passed a long way from burning incense, aromatic herbs and resin at religious rituals to “Chanel 5”. Etymologically, word “perfume” comes from Latin phrase “per fumum” meaning “through smoke”

 

 

    The story about the first form of perfume and its meaning in the Egyptian life was written in hieroglyphs on ancient Egyptian tombs. It is well-known that Queen Hatshepsut, one of the most remarkable figures in this civilization history, sent large expeditions to search for incense and other precious aromatic plants. The stories from those journeys have been inwritten on the pyramid walls in her honor. There was a botanical garden in her temple where incense was grown and its young plants had been brought from those expedition. They got resin also called incense by cutting the incense skin. Before the Egyptian gold age perfumes had been used only at religious rituals, so the citizens were ordered to use perfumes only cosmetically once a week.

 

 

The odorous traces of Egypt    

 

Predecessors of luxurious Greek and Roman baths appeared just in Egypt. The Egyptians drowned their bodies into water with aromatic oils, which helped them to protect skin against strong sun rays. Bathing in the odorous water, sometimes three times a day, brought them pleasure so they always took perfumes along. They used to leave them in tombs so the deceased could have silk-like skin in life after death. This gesture was covered by Egyptian comprehension of life after death. Namely, they believed that soul was tied to the heaven and the ancestors could have followed it by its smell. Perfumes were used in embalming process too. The odorous notes for different parts of a body and first smelling creams were devised in Egypt.

 

The Greeks have been considered to develop the art of making first scented liquid, although it was completely different from the perfume popular and used today. The Greeks mixed odorous powder with strong oils without alcohol and poured the received liquid into small golden, glass, porcelain and stone bottles. When they started to process glass in Egypt it was regarded more valuable than precious stones and it was mostly used for ornament making. The Egyptians exported some spices from India, like ginger, pepper and sandalwood while lily was brought from Crete. Egypt has kept a significant position in production of perfumes, consisting essential oils, especially because of lily growing. In the 16th century, in spite of perfume usage banning, men and women often used it, before and after bath over all body parts.

 

Cleopatra, famous Egyptian ruler, believed in odour power. As history says, when she was a guest on Marco Antonio’s boat its masts were perfumed. Nefertiti, one of the three Egyptian rulers famous for their beauty (the other two were Cleopatra and Hatshepsut), stayed in the rooms filled with the smell of myrrh a kind of resin. Owning sweet aromatic herbs was a proof of wealth.

 

 

Perfumed animals  

 

Roman baths, known for their spectacular look, had a special room within where dishes and jars with aromatic oils were kept. At holidays the birds were let out their cages to spread odorous notes while flying, for their bodies had been sprayed with aromatic oils. Alexander the Great’s invasion caused perfume spreading in Greece. When they were researching how perfumes affected human temper they noticed the connection of taste and smell perception. The first perfume factory originates from the Bronze Age and it started on Cyprus. The invention of rose water was attributed to Avicenna, a famous doctor and alchemist. He separated essential oils from flowers what was the basic step to production of liquid perfumes.

 

The first perfume of today’s shape was made of essential oils, rosemary and lavender mixture in 1370. It was so called “Hungarian water” made for Hungarian queen Erzsebet. Perfumes were highly popular in Europe owing to Catharina Medici, French queen from religious wars period, who even had a personal perfume designer at the court, Rene le Florentin. The most shining moments perfumes had in the 19th century when shops, selling creams, soaps and perfumes were opened. Grass, a town in French Province, became the centre of perfume production and the place proud of the largest lavender and rosemary fields in Europe.

 

 

Chanel 5  

 

Only high society classes could enjoy the smelling notes then. Later, they were available to wider masses, because chemical industry inventions modernized the way of perfume producing. At one time the famous fashion designer Coco Chanel brought the revolution into the fashion world. This lady of high style was the first in history to design perfume with her own name, famous “Chanel 5”. In the middle of 20th century the first perfumes for men appeared.

Nobody can deny psychological effect of perfumes and that is where their value really lies. Thus, it is not unusual than many designers have started different psychological researches learned on potential buyers’ wishes. Training for perfume designer lasts about five years and it has been held at perfume schools as Vichy Perfume Institute in Paris and Givaudan School, founded in the bygone 1946.

 

 

The best-known perfumes    

 

One of the best-known perfumes “Shalimar” was created in the bygone 1921. A vial had a unique and characteristic look for entire 60 years. Advertising campaigns for this perfume have become better and better each year and the one promoted by famous model Natalia Vodianova got positive criticism. Next to this perfume there is proudly standing “Joy”, one of the leading flowery perfumes from 1929, created by Jean Patou Chive Christian Perfume” was enlisted into the Guinness records book as the most expensive perfume in the world. This smell is produced from the rarest ingredients with two ones well-known to us- unique Indian sandalwood and rare sort of vanilla from Tahiti. The most expensive vial of perfume is “Imperial Majesty”, made from baccarat crystal with diamond ornaments. Only about ten those vials are launched yearly. Elton John and Katie Holmes are among the fans of these elite drops.

 

Keep glass perfume vials always properly closed and in the dark

Spread perfume only on pulse spots because smelling notes slowly release on them keeping natural intensity

After spreading perfume don’t rub your wrists together, for it will completely neutralize the odour

The interesting thing is that perfume is evenly spread after you spray it and then you go through odorous “cloud”

Odours containing oil extracts are steadier

Choose and buy your perfume in the morning, because your nose registers odorous shades most accurately at the time of a day. Try to avoid smelling more than three perfumes a day for your nose has limited capacity of receiving smelling combinations  

Autor: Jovana Katić

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