Kimono – something that people wear

Those were the Japanese words kiru (to wear) and mono (thing) that the word kimono was developed from. Literally, it means ’something that people wear’. Thus, let’s see how this traditional Japanese costume appeared and how it was worn.  

     Kimono appeared in 5th century inspired by the Chinese hanfu, but it was not until 19th century that it got its final form, when everybody wore it in Japan. It is well - known in the world as a typical traditional Japanese costume. Basically, kimonos are unisex pieces of clothing. We distinguish gender and age according to the material, or the cloth, design, colour and sleeves length and shape. Kimono is still unavoidable at weddings. In addition, older people or traditional art performers wear it every day. Today, they get a lot of attention in ceremonial events and diplomatic feasts. Price is the reason why kimonos are out-of-date, as well as dressing, wearing and undressing impracticality. One piece of a woman kimono can cost approximately 10.000 dollars. Obi or the belt that is worn across it, often costs several thousand dollars. Depending on the gender, age, season and style, it can be from 5 to 35 centimeters wide, 1,5 to 4 meters long, more or less decorated. This belt is very expensive, almost as the whole kimono.

Kimono dressing is not simple. There are courses where the correct dressing is learned in so-called ’kimono schools’. It is always worn so that the left part overlaps the right one (except with the deceased, when the overlap is on the opposite side author’s note). So overlapped, they are tied up with obi- the belt. Kimonos have never had pockets, so small things as well as the owner’s stuff have been put in characteristic wide and long sleeves or in the belt.

Tradition

All traditional kimonos were sewn and decorated by hand. The formal kimonos were made of silk, while the daily ones were made of cotton. There are several shapes of kimonos, depending on formality, or kind and greatness of a ceremony. The woman kimonos mainly differ from each other in the sleeves length, colour and design, while there is only one shape of the man ones. Comparing the woman kimono, it is always simpler and darker coloured.   

Japanese women wear kimonos when they are at the ceremonial events, like popular tea ceremonies or ikebana classes. Then girls and young, unmarried women wear lively kimono style, with long sleeves and obi- the belt in bright colours, tied up. Kimono made of a cloth with simple geometrical shapes, which is called edo komon, is worn by older, humble women.

At weddings, the bride and the groom would often change several costumes. The bride would wear heavy, richly embroidered white kimonos and an elaborate wig, while the groom would wear a black kimono, made of silk and habuta, with the family coat of arms. In addition, he would also wear hakama, a wrinkled skirt, and a semi-long black coat which is called haori. That is a jacket which is worn over the kimono. Although only men used to wear it, today women wear it too. The length of this piece of clothes reaches only thighs. The front panels are narrower than the kimono, so they cannot be packed.

At funerals, women and men wear simple black kimonos. A black item of clothing is suitable at any modern ceremony, so it is in Japan. In this case, it is hard to make a difference between a black man wedding dress and one that is worn at funerals. There is the difference in tie colour. They are white at weddings, and black at funerals.  

The art of kimono dressing is transmitted from generation to generation, precisely from mother to daughter. However, all of it can be learned in special schools today. The first things that should be dressed, as experts say, are tabi- white cotton socks, then the underwear, the skirt that can be done up at the top, nagajuban, under-kimono, which is tied up with the detemaki belt. Finally, the kimono can be dressed, and the obi wide belt, put over it. Outside a woman usually wears zori sandals.

Iukata means ’clothing for swimming’, is a kimono coat, that is worn as a summer dress, usually without a vest. According to that, it is also used as a nightgown or dressing gown.

Geta is casual footwear, made of wood and very similar to clogs. Both men and women wear getes, but the getes that are more similar to the European clogs are more popular with women. They are usually worn with iukata and during rainy summer days too. Zri are sandals different from the getes. They are made of material similar to straw, different fabric kinds, but also of different plastic kinds. When made of plastic, they usually have got high wedge heels. They are worn with kimono, which is over high heels long, so they make the figure higher.

U FOKUSU  PRIČA SE DA  KULTURA  UMETNOST  FOTOGRAFIJA  FILM  POZORIŠTE  KNJIŽEVNOST  MUZIKA  ARHITEKTURA  DIZAJN  ENTERIJER  TERAPIJA STANOVANJA  MODA  STRIP  HIGIJENA UMA  RIZNICA  STIL  AUTO  ASTRO  KREATIVNI DNEVNIK

ModaFASHION

Kimono – nešto što se nosi

Od japanskih reči kiru (nositi) i mono (stvar), nastala je reč kimono. U bukvalnom prevodu to bi značilo „nešto što se nosi“. Stoga, pogledajmo kako je nastao i kako se nosi ovaj tradicionalni japanski kostim

    Kimono je nastao u 5. veku po uzoru na kineski hanfu, ali je konačnu formu zadobio tek u 19. veku, kada su ga u Japanu svi nosili. Svetu je prepoznatljiv kao tipčni tradicionalni japanski kostim. U osnovi, kimoni su uniseks. Pol i godine razlikujemo po materijalu, odnosno tkanini, dezenu, boji, i po dužini i obliku rukava. Kimono je i dalje neizostavan na venčanjima. Osim toga, svakodnevno ga nose stariji ljudi ili izvođači tradicionalne umetnosti. Danas im najviše pažnje pripada u ceremonijalnim prilikama i diplomatskim svečanostima. Razlog za izlazak kimona iz mode je cena, ali i nepraktičnost oblačenja, nošenja i svlačenja. Jedan ženski kimono može koštati u proseku 10.000 dolara. Obi ili pojas koji se nosi preko njega, često košta nekoliko hiljada dolara. U zavisnosti od pola, starosnog doba, sezone i stila, on može biti širok od 5 do 35 santimetra, a dugačak od 1,5 do 4 metra, manje ili više ukrašen. Ovaj pojas je često veoma skup, skoro kao čitav kimono.

Oblačenje kimona nije jednostavno. Postoje kursevi na kojima se pravilno oblačenje uči u tzv. „kimono školama“. Uvek se nosi tako da je leva strana preklopljena preko desne (osim kod pokojnika, tada je preklapanje suprotno op.a.). Tako preklopljeni, opasavaju se obijem - pojasom. Kimoni nikada nisu imali džepove, pa su se sitne stvarčice i posedništva vlasnika stavljale u karakteristične široke i duge rukave ili u pojas.

Tradicija

Svi tradicionalni kimoni ručno su šiveni i ukrašavani. Oni formalni su izrađivani od svile, dok su svakodnevni od pamuka. Kimono dolazi u nekoliko oblika, zavisno od formalnosti, odnosno vrste i veličine ceremonije. Ženski se razlikuju uglavnom po dužini rukava, boji i u dezenu, dok muški postoje u samo jednom obliku. U odnosu na ženski, uvek je mirnijih i tamnijih boja.

Žene u Japanu kimono nose kada prisustvuju ceremonijalnim umetnostima, kao što su popularne čaj ceremonije ili ikebana klase. Tada devojke i mlade, neudate žene nose živopisan kimono stil, sa dugim rukavima i sa povezanim obijem - pojasom u jarkim bojama. Kimono napravljen od tkanine sa jednostavnim geometrijskim oblicima, koji se zove edo komon, nose starije, smernije žene.

Na venčanjima, mlada i mladoženja neretko će promeniti nekoliko kostima. Mlada će nosti teška, bogato vezena bela kimona i elaborat periku, dok će mladoženja odenuti crni kimono, napravljen od svile i habutae, sa izvezenim porodičnim grbom. Pored toga, nosiće i hakama, naboranu suknju, i poludugi crni kaput koji se zove haori. To je jakna koja se nosi preko kimona. Iako su je nakada nosili samo muškarci, danas je nose i žene. Dužina ovog komada odeće doseže samo do bedara. Prednji paneli su uži nego kimono, tako da ne mogu biti upakovani.

Na sahranama, žene i muškarci nose jednostavne crne kimone. Crna odevna kombinacija je ispravna u svakoj savremenoj ceremonijalnoj prilici, pa tako i u Japanu. U ovom slučaju je teško napraviti razliku između crnog muškog venčanog odela i onog koji se nosi na sahranama. Razlika je u boji kravate. Za svadbe se nose bele, a za sahrane crne.

Umetnost odevanja kimona prenosi se sa kolena na koleno, tačnije sa majke na kćerku. Međutim, danas se isto može naučiti u specijalnim školama. Prva stvar koju treba obući, kažu stručnjaci, jesu tabi - bele pamučne čarape, zatim rublje, suknja koja se obmotava pri vrhu, nagajuban, pod- kimono, koji je vezan sa detemaki pojasom. Konačno se odeva kimono, preko kojeg ide obi široki pojas. Kada je napolju, žena najčešće nosi zori sandale.

Iukata znači „odeća za kupanje“, predstavlja kimono mantil, koji se nosi kao letnja haljina, najčešće bez potkošulje. Shodno tome, služi i kao spavaćica ili jutarnja haljina.

Geta je neformalna obuća, izrađena od drveta i vrlo je nalik klompama. Gete nose i žene i muškarci, ali geta koja je sličnija evropskim klompama popularnija je kod žena. Najčešće se nosi uz iukata i za vreme kišnih letnjih dana. Zri su sandale drugačije od geta. Izrađuju se od materijala koji su nalik slami, različitih vrsta tkanina, ali i od raznih vrsta plastike. Kada su izrađene od plastike, uglavnom imaju visoku klin petu. Nose se uz kimono čija je dužina preko visokih potpetica, pa na taj način vizuelno izdužuju figuru.

Kolumna: Ivana Nestorović, kostimografkinja