Coco Chanel
Key elegance
She was remembered by the women's suits, little black dress and perfume Chanel No°
5. Using her creativity and original approach to fashion, Coco loved to experiment
with styles. As a brave innovator and promoter of the practical way of dressing,
she found a way to effectively stylize it and make it an imperative. She often used
to say that "the simplicity is the key to true elegance"
The legendary Coco Chanel was a woman who deserves to be considered the undeniable
creator of style and the fashion magician, whose influence does not lose its importance
even today. We will not be wrong if we say that the story of Coco Chanel is the story
of the 20th century fashion. Avant-
She thought that simplicity is the key to true elegance. Consequently,
she changed female fashion rejecting uncomfortable corsets and offering everyday,
practical clothes, which frees the body. One of the first successes of Coco Chanel
was a comfortable sweater with belt, combined with skirt, which met the universal
approval.
Men as inspiration
Intrigued by men's fashion, she was the first person who wanted to dress a woman
into something resembling a man's suit. This results in almost boyish designed suits,
which include trousers for women. This had been unthinkable until than. Skillfully
combining elements of men's and women's fashion, with time she created the famous
Chanel suit, for which she will be remembered and recognized. An elegant set consisting
of a skirt to the knees and short waist jacket, traditionally made of wool and
decorated with gold-
Highlighted
narrow waist is distinctive for Coco Chanel’s collection, with modestly accentuated
shoulders, just to accentuate the waist even more. Her ideas were not destined only
for the creation of models; she created a complete fashion stile. Hand-
From thorns to the stars
Gabrielle Chanel was born on August 19, 1883 in Saumur, a small French town. She
was the illegitimate child of a street vendor and a housekeeper, who, beside her,
had five other children. Despite the fact that the children were born out of wedlock,
which at that time was unacceptable, her mother, however, managed to baptize Gabrielle
with his father's surname Chasnel. The minister wrote Chanel instead of Chasnel by
mistake in a birth certificate, so Gabrielle got the name which will make her famous.
When she was 11 years old, her mother died and her father didn’t want to take care
of children. She finished in the orphanage and nuns took care of her. She remained
in the orphanage for five years and there she learned dressmaking.
When she was 16
years old, Gabrielle left the orphanage and began working as a seamstress. Soon after,
she moved to Paris where she began working at nightclubs as a dancer and singer.
She "earned" a nickname Coco, which she would later use as a name, singing the song
"Qui a vu qu Coco dans le Trocadero" in a café "La Rotonda" in Montparnasse. Her
one wish was to be engaged in the design and manufacture of hats, which were at that
time an indispensable accessory of every lady. Thanks to financial help of her lover,
army officer and a wealthy heir, Etienne Balzan, in 1909 Coco opened the boutique.
Her dream started coming true.
The job was doing great, and Gabriella, besides hats, after a short time offered to her customers simple designs, which were characterized by convenience and comfort. This was the beginning of her "new fashion". Despite initial success, her clothes had difficulties in reaching customers. However, with a help of her new lover, who believed in her vision, industrialist Arthur Chapel, Coco opened new boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz.
In 1920 Chanel became the respectable fashion company, which employed over 300 workers. In the early twenties, Coco broadened a range of her creative activity to high fashion, creating comfortable and elegant costumes, dresses, women's pants, jewelry and perfumes. With casual designs, short skirts and comfortable garments she strongly opposed to a widespread fashion of strict, conservative lines.
Coco has never married. She had an affair with the German officer during the World War II, which forced her to leave Paris and the fashion world for 10 years. However, she returned, and once again she was creating a women's clothing, jewelry, hats ... Coco spent the last days of her life at the Ritz, spending time with the hotel staff. She worked diligently, although older now, she was much weaker. She decided to withdraw from the global fashion scene and let the ambitious young talents express their affinity for this kind of art. In the course of preparing her farewell collection, Coco died at 87, leaving behind an empire worth $ 165 million. Today, the value is estimated at 4.5 billion dollars.
Chanel legacy
The legendary name in fashion world, Chanel, has been synonymous with prestige and
elegance. After the death of the creator of the brand, Karl Lagerfeld took over the
care of the fashion kingdom in 1971. Coco has left behind a rich heritage and house
rules that Karl respects and adds a bold modern touch. Lagerfeld leads one of the
last haute couture salons in Paris.
In 2005 Metropolitan Museum in New York opened
an exhibition dedicated to the historical innovation that Coco Chanel has brought
into fashion, showing her collections, as well as new creations of Karl Lagerfeld.
A common love for fashion of the present and the future is what connects Coco and
Karl. Coco once said: "I am neither past nor avant-
Parfume with femail fragrance – Coco Chanel No.5
By: Jovana Katić
Synonymous with grace and femininity, fragrance Chanel No. 5, is one of the most famous perfumes in the world. A mixture of 80 aromatic ingredients, in the elegant bottle, keeps the secret of the origin of the perfume, which this year celebrates 90 years of existence.
The famous perfume was created in 1921, in a small laboratory in Grasse, in southern
France. Coco Chanel hired Ernest Beaux who made several perfumes. After long deliberation
she chose the fifth bottle. Jasmine, rose, bergamot and vetiver are on the list of
desired notes, with the advice that none should be dominant. Coco loved to say: "I
don't want to smell like rose, I want to smell like a woman".
Ernest working on the parfume singled out the synthetic component -
U FOKUSU PRIČA SE DA KULTURA UMETNOST FOTOGRAFIJA FILM POZORIŠTE KNJIŽEVNOST MUZIKA ARHITEKTURA DIZAJN ENTERIJER TERAPIJA STANOVANJA MODA STRIP HIGIJENA UMA RIZNICA STIL AUTO ASTRO KREATIVNI DNEVNIK
ModaFASHION
Koko Šanel
Ključ elegancije
Ostala je zapamćena po ženskom odelu, maloj crnoj haljini i po parfemu Šanel No. 5. Koristeći svoju kreativnost i originalan pristup modi, Koko je volela da eksperimentiše sa stilovima. Hrabra inovatorka i promoterka praktičnog načina odevanja, pronašla je način da praktično stilizuje i učini ga modnim imperativom. Često je govorila da je „jednostavnost ključ prave elegancije“
Žena koja se zasluženo može smatrati neprikosnovenim tvorcem stila, ali i modnim magom, čiji uticaj ni danas ne gubi na značaju, bila je legendarna Koko Šanel. Nećemo pogrešiti ako kažemo da je priča o Koko Šanel priča o modi 20. veka. Avangardna, drugačija i smela, dvadesetih godina prošlog veka lansirala je novi modni stil, koji je bio u potpunoj suprotnosti s dotadašnjim modnim standardima.
Smatrala je da je jednostavnost ključ istinske elegancije. Shodno tome, promenila je žensku modu odbacivši neudobne korsete, nudeći svakodnevnu, praktičnu odeću, koja oslobađa telo. Jedan od prvih uspeha Koko Šanel bili su komotni džemperi sa pojasom, kombinovani sa suknjom, koji nailaze na sveopšte odobravanje.
Muškarci kao inspiracija
Zaintrigirana muškom modom, bila je prva osoba koja je poželela da obuče ženu u nešto nalik muškom odelu. Tako nastaju gotovo dečački dizajnirana odela, koja uključuju i pantalone za žene, što je do tada bilo nezamislivo. Vešto kombinujući elemente muške i ženske mode, vremenom je stvorila i čuveni Šanel kostim, po kom će ostati upamćena i prepoznatljiva. Elegantni komplet koji karakteriše suknja do kolena i kratak, strukiran sako, tradicionalno izrađen od vune i ukrašen dugmićima boje zlata, postao je trajno obeležje stila i omiljen odevni predmet žena, naročito pripadnica viših slojeva.
Prepoznatljivu Koko Šanel liniju karakteriše naglašen uzak struk, sa smerno naglašenim ramenima, tek toliko da struk još više dođe do izražaja. Njene ideje se nisu završavale samo na kreiranju modela, ona je iskreirala kompletan modni stil. Sastavni delovi Šanel stila postale su ručno izrađivane torbice sa drškama od zlatnih obruča spojenih u lanac, šik detalji u vidu velikog cveta na reveru ili biserne, višeslojne ogrlice, ali i ravne cipele. Koko se nije dokazala samo kao vrsna modna dizajnerka i kreatorka, već i kao veoma promućurna i sposobna poslovna žena.
Od trnja do zvezda
Gabrijela Šanel, kako joj je pravo ime, rođena je 19. avgusta 1883. u Saumuru, malom francuskom gradu. Bila je vanbračno dete uličnog prodavca i domaćice, koji su, pored nje, imali još petoro dece. Uprkos tome što su deca bila rođena u vanbračnoj zajednici, što je u to vreme bilo nedopustivo, majka je ipak uspela Gabrijelu da krsti očevim prezimenom Šasnel. Greškom crkvenog službenika, koji je u krštenici upisao Šanel umesto Šasnel, Gabrijela je dobila prezime po kome će postati poznata. Kada je imala 11 godina, majka joj je umrla, a otac nije hteo da preuzme brigu o deci. Završila je u sirotištu i o njoj su se brinule opatice. U sirotištu je ostala pet godina i u njemu je izučila krojački zanat.
Kada je napunila 16 godina, Gabrijela napušta sirotište i počinje da radi kao krojačica. Nedugo zatim, seli se u Pariz gde počinje da radi po noćnim klubovima kao igračica i pevačica. Nadimak Koko, koji će kasnije početi da koristi kao ime, „zaradila“ je pevajući pesmu „Qui qu a vu Coco dans le Trocadero“, u kafeu „La Rotonda“ na Montparnasu. Njena velika želja je, inače, bila da se bavi dizajnom i izradom šešira, koji su u to doba bili neizostavni modni detalj svake dame. Zahvaljujući finansijskoj pomoći svog ljubavnika, vojnog oficira i bogatog naslednika, Etjena Balzana, 1909. godine Koko otvara butik, čime njen san počinje da se ostvaruje.
Posao je odlično krenuo, pa je Gabrijela, osim šešira, nakon kratkog vremena svojim klijentima počela da nudi jednostavne kreacije, koje su se odlikovale praktičnošću i udobnošću. To je bio začetak njene „nove mode“. Uprkos početnom uspehu, njena odeća se teško probijala. Ipak, uz pomoć novog ljubavnika koji je verovao u njene vizije, industrijalca Artura Kapela, Koko otvara nove butike u Dovilu i Bijaricu.
Već 1920. godine Šanel je postala respektabilna modna kuća, koja je zapošljavala preko 300 radnika. Početkom dvadesetih godina prošlog veka, Koko širi područje svog kreativnog delovanja na visoki modni dizajn, kreirajući komforne i elegantne kostime, haljine, ženske pantalone, nakit i parfeme. Opuštenim kreacijama, kratkim suknjama i komfornim odevnim predmetima snažno se suprotstavlja dotad vrlo raširenoj modi strogih, konzervativnih linija.
Koko se nikad nije udavala. Imala je aferu i sa nemačkim oficirom tokom Drugog svetskog rata, zbog čega je bila primorana da napusti Pariz i svet mode na 10 godina. Međutim, vratila se, ponovo kreirala ženska odela, nakit, šešire... Poslednje dane svog života Koko je provodila u Ritzu, družeći se sa osobljem hotela. Radila je vredno, iako zašavši u godine duboke starosti, te je snaga počela da je izdaje. Odlučila je da se povuče sa svetske modne scene i prepusti mladim ambicioznim talentima da iskažu svoje afinitete prema ovoj vrsti umetnosti. U toku pripremanja svoje oproštajne kolekcije, Koko umire u 87. godini i ostavlja iza sebe imperiju vrednu 165 miliona dolara. Danas se ta vrednost procenjuje na 4.5 milijarde dolara.
Šanel nasleđe
Legendarno ime u svetu mode, Chanel, danas je sinonim za prestiž i eleganciju. Nakon smrti tvorca brenda, 1971. godine, Karl Lagerfeld je preuzeo brigu o ovom modnom kraljevstvu. Koko je iza sebe ostavila bogato nasleđe, ali i pravila kuće koje Karl poštuje i pridodaje smelu savremenu notu. Lagerfeld predvodi jedan od poslednjih salona visoke mode u Parizu.
Muzej Metropoliten u Njujorku je 2005. godine otvorio izložbu posvećenu istorijskim inovacijama koje je unela Koko Šanel, prikazavši njene kolekcije, ali i nove kreacije Karla Lagerfelda. Zajednička ljubav prema modi sadašnjosti i budućnosti je ono što povezuje Koko i Karla. Koko je jednom prilikom izjavila: „Ja nisam ni prošlost, ni avangarda. Moj stil prati život.“
Parfem sa mirisom žene – Coco Chanel No.5
Autor: Jovana Katić
Sinonim za gracioznost i ženstvenost, parfem Šanel broj 5, jedan je od najpoznatijih parfema na svetu. U elegantnoj bočici, mešavina 80 mirišljavih sastojaka čuva tajnu o nastanku parfema koji ove godine slavi 90 godina postojanja.
Čuveni parfem je nastao 1921. godine, u maloj laboratoriji u Grasu, na jugu Francuske. Koko Šanel je angažovala Ernesta Boa, koji je napravio nekolicinu mirisnih kompozicija. Ona je, nakon dugo premišljanja, odbrala petu bočicu. Jasmin, ruža, bergamot i vetiver su na listi poželjnih nota, uz savet da se nijedna ne naglašava. Koko je volela da kaže: „Ne želim da mirišem na ružu, želim da mirišem na ženu.“
Ernest je prilikom rada na mirisu izdvojio sintetičku komponentu -
Autor: Ivana Nestorović
